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Thursday, 18 November 2010

"Survival of the Fittest" - BAPE X Stussy AW10

This winter sees the collaboration of two icons in streetwear, two labels which have proven to become cult brands and international influencers through, not only fashion, but design, communication, branding and generally staying fresh. BAPE and Stussy have merged their distinctive styles and iconography together with the skull and camo, specialized with the Stussy 'doodling handwriting' and the BAPE Ape, creating an extensive collection of apparel and footwear.

The collection can be divided into two styles, one which is more orthodox street wear with printed graphic t-shirts, shell jackets and embellished denim, and the other with a more subtle palette and follows a more mature cut-and-sew styling with oxford button downs, cardigans, and unadorned blues. The collection, aptly named, “Survival Of The Fittest”, is designed to celebrate Stussy’s 30th Anniversary, and points to the evolution of both brands through the years, and adapting to the market with incredible foresight and creativity for survival which I feel some brands should try and aspire to, not only in the realms of streetwear.

In any case, both labels have done way more than simply survive, and the collection is set to hit the racks very soon, on November 27th.

Tuesday, 9 November 2010

New Era XC – London Launch | Video

New Era has launched an interesting and collaborative way to celebrate their 90th anniversary by producing a special New Era XC Collection. It is a customizable blank New Era 59FIFTY cap and they have reached out to the cream of the crop of 90 graduate art students from all over Europe’s most prestigious art schools.

New Era XC has used the mould of the cult product as a platform for self-expression. Uniting nine decades of design and fashion experience with the creative minds of tomorrow. The international headwear and apparel brand welcomed a shortlist of 90 graduate artists from some of Europe’s most prestigious design schools to unleash their creativity on a New Era 59FIFTY, in celebration of the brand’s 90th anniversary. The artist who has displayed the most uniquely creative expression in headwear design will secure a £10,000 bursary, with the intent of assisting their launch into their chosen artistic career. The exhibition, will display the 90 works of art. The showcase will also play launch to the corresponding limited edition New Era XC collector’s book, highlighting images of the 90 works of art along with biographies of the gifted graduates, and a snapshot of the brand’s nine decades in fashion, design and sport.


View the short video and prepare to look out for exhibitions coming up:
_4-7 November - London
_11-13 November - Berlin
_18-20 November - Milan
_25-27 November - Barcelona
_2-4 December - Paris

Appealing to the Locals, Size? UK

De-branding your well known range appears to be a trend within 'brand management(?)' at the moment since the rise of the BIG society, Generation WE and the augmented, local loving culture. Generation 'WE' = Local. Micro. Niche.

Starbucks decision to remove all branding from one of its Seattle Coffee shops = an attempt to distance the outlet from the brand to rescue it from its ubiquity and is a prime example of brands adapting to suit a particular location, to enhance locality. Branding - the con of the 'brand' is everywhere which has created a loss of individuality. Consumers are looking more and more for a new, tactile and niche experience. They want Starbucks coffee products but in their warm, loving and local coffee 'boutique'. More personal. Niche and locality is fashionable.

What I have found from my own personal research within the UK retail environment and experiences when shopping is that the larger chain stores and MNC's (Multi-national corporations) want MASS custom, not MY custom. The service was less inviting and impersonal in comparison to a smaller, independant shop and even vintage/second hand shops. Smaller inde's are generally more welcoming and interesting in serving you personally I feel - probably because at this time more than ever, every sale counts! I think it is public perception that most local brands are synonymous with good quality and good service more than larger chain stores
Who prefers their local Tesco butchers to their local family butchers? (The latter championed by chefs and TV cookery programmes).

In the current economic struggle and cuts, customer service is more important than ever! If the customer isn't treated right then they will be reluctant to spend their money - they want to get the most from their spending, which includes the in-store experience.

YOUR LOCAL PUB HAS BEEN DOING IT FOR YEARS! I have noticed loads of pubs that have local artwork or memorabilia helping to furnish the interiors. It can help make a brand more collectible. Size? have taken this idea and now have an ethos of keeping the VM for their stores rooted within the local scene, playing off local history, geography and cultural puns. Stepping into a Size? store nowadays may as well have a 'Home Sweet Home' doormat on the entrance. There is a strong sense of respecting locality. I believe that once a brand is established and owned by the local, loyal consumers rather than by the company, as a brand manager, you should be able to just help 'guide' it. It is a lot easier (I imagine) for smaller, entreprenuerial retailers to direct this and tailor it more 'on their toes', so to speak. Can larger chain stores and high street giants be so nimble fingered in tailoring their brand to suit their neighbourhood?

Thursday, 4 November 2010

INFLUENCERS:// How Trends & Creativity Become Contagious

INFLUENCERS_
a short documentary that explores what it means to be an influencer and how trends and creativity become contagious today in music, fashion and entertainment.


Arguably the center of the world, New York City, is perhaps one of the first cities in the world to experience a new trend or idea going from a single person or a small group of people, to becoming a full-fledged, mass market deal. In R+I Creative's new film, 'INFLUENCERS', the directors, Paul Rojanathra and Davis Johnson attempt to understand how trends and creativity become contagious; how influencers exert their influence, and how something grows from a happening into a phenomenon. The short documentary features interviews with New York City’s leading creatives from art & design to music, such as Jeff Staple, Dao Yi of Public School, and Rob Stone and Jon Cohen of Cornerstone. The film attempts to understand the essence of influence, what makes a person influential without taking a statistical or metric approach.

The documentary is also a part of an online experience which includes a special mixtape by Baptman to drop on November 10th, and an in-depth look into the cast.

Thursday, 21 October 2010

Norse Projects x Hestra ‘Staale’ Gloves

Norse Projects have drafted in gloves specialist Hestra to create some luxury hand covers for their Autumn/Winter collection.

I say heritage, I mean heritage! Hestra have been making gloves since 1936 and is named after the Swedish town where the company was founded and is still run by a 3rd generation family member who still handles all manufacturing and material sourcing. Made from 100% deerskin with a 100% wool lining, Hestra haven’t held back on these gloves either, applying their mastership to create a super high-end glove with simplistic styling.

Contrast stitching adds a bit of colour-pop to the gloves which come in a really nice Tan or Yellow and a classic Black. Added detail such as the embossed collaborative branding on the wrist and the Norse tab that we have all become oh so familiar with are both nice touches. For those that know the Norse tab well, you may be shocked to see that their usual slogan of “Created to improve life. Good for all seasons.” has been replaced with “A product of the cold cold north.” ...Ice. Cold. Cool.

This collaboration highlights yet another product moving towards the macro trend of the 'resurgence of traditionalism and heritage' which I have been following since the start of the year, right back to my study of Birmingham where I was inspired by the shop window of Gieves & Hawkes. The simplicity and quality of these gloves stays true to the essence and tradition of Scandinavian workwear brands, where the region is pretty much in a league of its own.

Over the last few years I have noticed the influx of Scandinavian brands such as Norse Projects, Humor, Fjoar Raven etc. growing in popularity within menswear fashion. I beleive that this is because they offer more transparency and less myth/mystery around the brand in terms of design inspiration and the essence i.e. Norse Projects has been born out of the admiration of strong, robust and practical Norweigen workwear aesthetics - similar to that of Nigel Cabourn or Barbour in terms of British brands. There is slowly a cultural shift moving from big names and brash logo's towards an appeal of the crafted, functional and niche clothing brands (just look at how 'cool' has shifted towards the introvert and 'geek'!) Expect to see more lesser known brands coming to the limelight and mainstream as a result of the current 'Conviviality Culture', which I will explain further in a later post.

For now though...
Grab a pair of these winter warmers from Goodhood from £60 a pair.

Tuesday, 6 July 2010

You Know You're Lookin at a Winner

It has been a long time. Almost forgot my password to this blog but I am back!

The main reason for setting this up was to be entered into a competition which ran across all Fashion Marketing/Communication levels of study at Uni (freshers to 3rd years) which was being used by the marketing dept. to show how vital travelling and field trips/research are to enhanching your skills for your course. As I didn't go to New York, I based my research on the 'UK Fashion Marketing & Branding Environment' in a city of my choice - Brum.
And from this I did what I did, here is the blog and I am the winner of the 1st Years competition... earning myself a little £75 voucher to spend at the Victoria Centre in Notts (which works out at about £2.50 an hour considering the amount of time I spent in Birmingham photographing things and then responding to them via this blog). However it's always a good thing to be rewarded for your efforts - no matter how big or small!

Since I have won the competition I have been knuckling down to finish all of my portfolio and projects etc. off for the first year and interned for 2 weeks at The Trend Boutique as a Trend Reseacher/Cool Finder which was REALLY good...

For now though...

You Know You're Lookin at a Winner. LISTEN<<

Monday, 29 March 2010

Stripe-in 'ell. Lacoste, Office. Birmingham

The Lacoste shop window was looking very stripey, featuring some stripey SS10 garments. The preppy, slim fitted, sailor style is back again and Lacoste have naturally hopped on the band wagon (or yacht/barge!)
très rayure


Office also used the stripe visuals in their VM which is synonymous with the brand identity with the 3D diagonal stripes. The shoe stand I thought was particularly interesting because of the emphasis on geometry and clean lines. The perspex shoe stand makes the shoes look like they are invisibly stacked. Nice

Wednesday, 24 March 2010

MASS APPEAL - All Saints & Kurt Geiger, Birmingham

'Wha wha what's goin' on...'

Sorry, it was where I got the idea of this post name from so I had to throw in a link// Classic old school tune, love it. LISTEN <<

I saw in Birmingham that both All Saints and Kurt Geiger within the Bullring had gone for the mass product look within their VM, stacked with surgically positioned and perfectly aligned grids which caught my iris'...


Kurt Geiger had gone for something a bit different, whether it was trying to cut costs or to show that they can trust the good and honest Birmingham public (lol!) by having no form of security between the product and consumer. It's interesting using the front of the shop almost just as storage/shelf space, proudly putting the products on show and makes the store feel more open. I liked the geometric style using the shoes almost as pattern being reflected and refracted by the mirrored boxes.
All Saints went for more of a vintage, antique style take with their mass styled VM. About 100 Singer sewing machines stacked in formation could also be a reference to heritage and craftsmanship and relate back to the handcrafted, more unique cut garments produced by the brand and perhaps amplify the vintage quality. I think this was my favourite shop window in Birmingham although the photos don't really do it justice.

Seeing about 100 sewing machines meticulously placed in metal cages in the shop window, under low light, recalls the modernism push of mass production and how it was worshiped pre 1950s and makes an interesting, quriky and charismatic front window.

Tuesday, 23 March 2010

Halls of Fame - DKNY & Armani Exchange, Birmingham


Step right in...

The thing which interested me in these 2 stores, more so than their clothes! is the 'lobby style' entrance as a halfway point between the outside and the interiors. The hallway acts as a comfort/de-clutter zone almost, taking you out from the hustle and bustle of the busy streets into a more relaxed, cleaner and stylish interior. It sets you up before you go into the store and makes you feel like you are stepping into a different sort of environment where it is actually worth being in, by having an extended entrance unlike the average POP'n'SHOP within the mid-market with a simple door. The space also gives the brand a few extra footsteps to make your mouth water and increase your excitement to get in. This relates to the point I made earlier of brands needing to sell more of an experience within their physical stores because it is so easy to buy online, brands need to increase the incentive for us to get off our back-sides and make the effort to purchase instore.


The Armani Exchange store has also used this idea of a hallway but taken it a step further by making it even more interactive with the consumer, employing a resident DJ to bang out the tunes in the shop window. Personally I have always loved this idea of combining fashion and live music and feel that it can be a really powerful method to talk to the consumer, obviously more so if the brand has a musical/creative personality or connection.
Diesel 'Only the Brave' Block Party, Paris Feat. Common LIVE!
<< My favourite example of a fashion brand and live music COOL_laborating... Common KILLS IT!

I think Selfridges, Birmingham tried to get away with just blaring music from the equipment and no actual real DJ a couple of years ago within the menswear section of the store. I feel that it is pointless just having the equipment and no one actually being DJ, pretty much takes the point away and loses the personal interaction value into just unneccessary loud music.
This whole DJ, Club Anthem vibe fitted perfectly to the brands target consumer at the Armani Exchange and plays out directly to the market of 'clubwear'/weekend smart-casuals. I can imagine the concept being most appreciated by the early twenties/late teens all over Birmingham who will be looking for clothing with a bit more substance rather than your generic, common Henleys, Soviet, Firetrap or GioGoi which would be the young male clubbers 1st point of call. Pretty boy, would've been/could've been semi-professional footballer-chic.
Armani Exchange plays out to the male 'weekender' mainstream, offering a slightly more upmarket, affordable-designer luxury...

As well as offering more space for advertising and offering a slightly different retail environment (a bit like a club!) the idea of using a hallway style space is more interactive, giving a brand a few extra seconds to sell the experience/brand message which could have a massive impact on the consumer! I like it.

Friday, 19 March 2010

SS10 VM Geek chic/90's Prep - DKNY, River Island, Topman

Embrace the martian...

More visual trends, this time within the universe of menswear...
I have noticed a strong influence of space and 90s preppy-American, Seattle style space visuals within current visual merchandise.
Places where I have seen the space theme just land are:
Nottingham Contemporary 'Star City Exhibition'
Star Wars X Adidas Collaboration
River Island, Birmingham
Topman, Birmingham
DKNY, Birmingham
3 White Walls Gallery 'Space Lands Exhibition', Birmingham


A key menswear VM trend, from what I saw in Birmingham specifically, orbited around the idea of alien invasion and space theme. The 3 White Walls Gallery was running a great exhibition called 'SPACE LANDS' by Paul Freeman, coincidentally, which I thought had some really nice photographs which could be used (within in-store promotion, lookbooks, VM etc) by brands which are carrying this message.

DKNY were portraying this theme with the words 'Just Landed' used in their shop window. There was a sense of delivery/industry with packages containing clothes, slightly deconstructed and damaged, perhaps dropped of by a couple of fashion conscious aliens (or am I talking out of Uranus!) The use of a green strobe light within the dark back drop looked different but would have been more exciting with several rather than just the one.

River Island.

Topman.
KiD CuDi - Man on the Moon (The Anthem)
Kid CuDi - Enter Galactic

SS10 VM Floral/Pastel - Topshop & Oasis Birmingham


Very Viktor & Rolf SS10. It looked like a flowerbomb had just exploded in the shop window.
Nice use of layering and transparent oversized flowers with pastelle blocks of colour on top of the mannequins.

Bang on Spring 2010 as we expect and love of Topshop.

Oh whAt'S thIS?


Above is the shop window of Oasis, inside the Bullring, which I thought had adapted a nice take on the 'floral'_'pastel'_'fairytale' theme I was seeing a lot of in Birmingham, particuarly within the mid-market retailers of womenswear. The stencil style wrapping around the shop sign and intertwined with the main board made more of an impression than focussing mainly on mannequins and product. The store was also using the oversized 'Book of Charms' feature to show off the current collaboration with textile designer Vanessa Harrington which is part of the current movement by the brand to support British textile talent. It all looked very delicate, dainty and floral which may have some connection to the release of Tim Burton's new take on Alice in Wonderland, since everyone seems to be jumping on this b(r)and-wagon. Also the backing of British talent ties in nicely with the idea of brands looking to fullfill the 'new consumer' needs of a local, honest brand image. sweet like tropicana.

Thursday, 18 March 2010

MORE INTERACTION - Carphone Warehouse, Birmingham

WELCOME. TO. THE. FUTURE.
This advertisement caught my attention because of the use of video animation within an averagely boring, unexciting shop window. Brands using video is becoming more and more frequent as a form of 'conversational marketing' and being more intriguing to the consumer rather than normal, one dimensional, print advertisements. This Carphone Warehouse example was also more interactive becuase of the wording of the promotion ("Touch To Play") and the animation also read "choose the colour of your life" which is also more personal and collaborative with the consumer. How long untill there is video advertising inside magazines/brochures/lookbooks!?
Fashion brands are becoming increasingly video-savvy with the increase of catwalk streaming to their websites/blogs showcasing seasonal catwalks and fashion shows.
The Burberry Autumn Winter 2010 streaming was billed as the world’s first truly global fashion show, taking place on the penultimate day of London Fashion Week, beamed live in 3D to five global cities, and streamed to the rest of the world via 73 websites, including Vogue, Grazia and CNN, which all picked up the video feed in a global simulcast. It was undoubtedly the most widely distributed fashion show a luxury brand has ever staged, potentially reaching an audience of more than 100 million users. (For further reading click here). In a fitting tribute to Mr. McQueen’s futuristic fashion vision from last September, more brands than ever before experimented with live-streaming, digital innovations and new e-commerce models for their Autumn Winter 2010 catwalks, in respect of a true innovator and forward-thinker.

Alexander McQueen digital tribute at OnOff, London. Source: The Business of Fashion